Nyan Cat Amigurumi PATTERN!

FINALLY!  I got it done. 

Now... Who will be the first to test this bad boy?  I've worked it twice from my instructions, and it isn't the easiest thing ever, but if you have any Ami experience, you should be able to make your own!  Enjoy!

You can download a PDF on Google Docs...

Or...

Here it is:


NYAN CAT AMIGURUMI PATTERN
(by Julianna McDuffie)

STUFF YOU NEED

• Yarn in a rainbow of colors as pictured. (I used mostly Red Heart Soft and Bernat Satin)
• Felt for the face
• Sequins
• Poly-fill or yarn ends for stuffing
• Size E or F hook
• Hot-glue gun/glue
• Tapestry needle

STITCHES USED

• Chain
• HDC (Half Double Crochet)
• SS (Slip Stitch)
• Bobble Stitch
• Whipstitch for joining pieces
• DC BOBBLE STITCH:  YO, insert hook into next stitch, pull through 1 loop YO, Pull through 2 loops. (2 loops on hook). YO, insert hook (in same stitch), YO, pull up a loop, YO, pull through 1 loop, YO, pull through 2 loops (3 loops on hook). YO, insert hook (in same stitch), YO, pull up a loop, YO, pull through 1 loop, YO, pull through 2 loops, YO pull through all 4 loops.
• HDC SHELL STITCH:  4 HDC all in one stitch.

************************************************************

POP TART BODY

CH 20

Row 1: SC in second Chain from hook. SC across. Working on the opposite side of the foundation chain, continue to SC across in the remaining chain loops, forming an in the round pocket. Join with SS in top of the first HDC in the row. (36 stitches)

Row 2-12: CH 2 (counts as first SC), SC around. (36 stitches)

Row 13: Flattening the piece, join front and back sides together with SS for 8 or 10 stitches. Stuff lightly (it’s a Pop-Tart, not a beach ball!). Continue to SS join front and back sides across. (18 stitches).

POP TART EDGING

(Note: The edging shells may not work out perfectly evenly– especially the Round 2. You may need to add or subtract a shell to hit the corners properly. Not a big deal. There’s enough excess ruffle here – on purpose -- that it won’t be a problem, and no one will notice. The most important thing is to be sure to set up your corners IN THE CORNER on Round One. In Round Two, the corner should be made in Round One’s chain 2 spaces. Yeah. My math skills aren’t great.)

Round 1:

Join Beige Yarn at the top left corner of the closed pop Tart.

1st CORNER: CH 2 (counts as first SC) and SC in same stitch. CH 2, 2 SC again in same stitch. 1st Corner made.

LEFT SIDE: SC across to Corner.

CORNER: (2 SC, CH 2, 2 SC) all in corner stitch.

BOTTOM: SC across to Corner.

CORNER: (2 SC, CH2, 2 SC) all in corner stitch.

RIGHT SIDE: SC across to Corner.

CORNER: (2 SC, CH2, 2 SC) all in corner stitch.

TOP: SC across to 1st Corner made. Join with SS in first SC. (continued…..)

Round 2: (Changing to HDC here…)

Slip Stitch to 1st Corner CH 2 Space. All in the same CH 2 space: Ch2 (counts as first HDC), 3HDC, CH 2, HDC Shell.

LEFT SIDE: Skip 2, *HDC Shell, skip 2* across, ending 2 or 3 stitches away from corner CH2 space.

CORNER: In the corner CH2 space, (HDC Shell, CH 2, HDC Shell).

BOTTOM: Skip 2, *HDC Shell, skip 2* across, ending 2 or 3 stitches away from corner CH2 space.

CORNER: In the corner CH2 space, (HDC Shell, CH 2, HDC Shell).

RIGHT SIDE: Skip 2, *HDC Shell, skip 2* across, ending 2 or 3 stitches away from corner CH2 space.

CORNER: In the corner CH2 space, (HDC Shell, CH 2, HDC Shell).

TOP To End: Skip 2, *4HDC in next loop (shell), skip 2* across, ending/joining with a SS in top of first HDC. Weave in all ends.

THE KITTY BITS

HEAD - worked in the round

Round 1: CH2 (counts as first SC). 7SC in second loop from hook. Join with a SS in top of first SC. (8 stitches)

Round 2: CH2 (counts as first SC). SC in same stitch. *2SC in each stitch* around. Join with SS in top of first SC. (16 stitches)

Round 3: CH2 (counts as first SC). SC in same stitch. *SC in next. 2SC in next* three times (11 stitches to this point). Form a 4 DC Bobble Stitch in next stitch to make the first cheek. (12 stitches to this point). *2SC in next. SC in next* 3 times (21 stitches to this point). 2 SC in Next. In the last stitch of the round, form a 4 DC Bobble stitch for the second cheek. Join with SS in top of first SC. (24 stitches)

Rounds 4 & 5: SC around (24 stitches). Tie off leaving a long tail to stitch to the front of the Pop Tart body. Weave in end of Round 1.

EARS (Joined and stitched directly to the last row of the head)

LEFT EAR, Row 1: Find the joining stitch of the cheek bobble in Row 3 of the head. Move down to last row of the head. Count 4 stitches toward the top of the head. Insert hook in 4th stitch and pull up a loop to join. CH2 (counts as first stitch). SC in same stitch. SC in next (3 stitches).

LEFT EAR Row 2: CH1. Turn. Skip first stitch. SC in next (this is the middle of row 1). (2-ish stitches) Tie off. Weave in ends.

RIGHT EAR, Row 1: Find the joining stitch of the opposite cheek bobble. Move down to last row of the head. Count 2 stitches toward the top of the head. Insert hook in second stitch and pull up a loop to join. CH2 (counts as first stitch). SC in same stitch. SC in next (3 stitches).

RIGHT EAR Row 2: CH1. Turn. Skip first stitch. SC in next (this is the middle of row 1). (2-ish stitches) Tie off. Weave in ends.

LEGS – worked in the round (Make 4)

Round 1: CH2 (counts as first SC), SC 5 times in first loop of CH2. (6 stitches)

Rounds 2-6: CH2 (counts as first SC) SC around. (6 stitches). ALTERNATELY, you could work each leg in a spiral until you reach desired length.

Tie off leaving a bit of tail for stitching to the back of the Pop Tart body. Weave in end from Row 1.

TAIL

Row 1: CH 13. SS in second stitch from hook. SS in next. SK next stitch. SS, SS. SS three times in next stitch. SS, SS. SK next stitch. SS, SS.

Row 2: CH1 (counts as SS). Turn. SS next. SK next. SS, SS. SS three times in next stitch. SS, SS.

SK next. SS, SS. Tie off leaving a bit of tail to stitch to the back of the Pop Tart body. Weave in end from Row 1.

THE RAINBOW

Note: The rainbow is worked as a ripple stitch (think, “ripple afghan”). If you would like to make your Nyan Cat into a long, rainbow scarf, make your initial chain as long as you would like your scarf to be, and then add a few chains for good measure. You can always undo a few loops on the end of the chain to make it “fit” the pattern. Won’t hurt anything, and it’ll be easier than counting in the long run. Plus, I’m bad a math. I may have already said that.

Row 1: WITH RED, Chain 25.


Row 2: Ch 2, Turn (counts as first HDC). HDC in next two chains. *2HDC in next chain. HDC in next 3 chains. Decrease in next by (HDC 2 chains together). HDC in next 3 chains.* across.

Row 3: SKIP 1st stitch, Repeat Row 2, using ORANGE.

Row 4: : SKIP 1st stitch Repeat Row 2, using YELLOW.

Row 5: : SKIP 1st stitch Repeat Row 2, using GREEN.

Row 6: : SKIP 1st stitch Repeat Row 2, using BLUE.

Row 7: : SKIP 1st stitch Repeat Row 2, using PURPLE.

Weave in all ends.

FINISHING

1.) Working from the front, join Head to bottom right-hand corner of Pop Tart, using the long tail to whipstitch. Hide your stitches as much as possible, and leave the ears “free” so that they can stick out a little and move. Stuff the head with Poly-Fil when you are ¾ of the way closed. Finish whip stitching the head to the body and weave in the ends. Note: I chose to join the head all the way into the corner, even sewing directly to the Pop-Tart fringe in the corner, but it’s your call.

2.) Working from the back of the Pop Tart, join Legs, (let the bottom row of Pop Tart pink as your guide), using the long tails to whipstitch legs to body. Weave in ends. I started with one leg all the way in each of the bottom corners, and then placed leg three directly next to leg one, and leg four directly next to leg one, leaving a belly-space between each set of legs.

3.) Working from the back of the Pop Tart, join Tail to the upper right-hand corner (you are opposite the head on the from side, right?), using the right hand side of the Pop Tart Pink as a guide. Do not sew to the Pop Tart Fringe to keep the movement.

4.) Working from the back of the Pop Tart, and using pink Pop-Tart yarn, join RAINBOW vertically down the right-hand side of the Pink Pop Tart, one row over from the end/edging so as not to overlap the tail.

5.) Cut facial features from felt and hot glue. I kept with the theme and made everything but the cheeks square, like pixels. I tried square cheeks as well, but just thought circular cheeks added to the overall cuteness factor.

6.) Randomly hot-glue sequins on the pink of the Pop Tart. Fly through the sky…..

NyaNyaNyaNyaNyaNyaNyaNyaNyaNyaNyaNyaNyaNyaNyaNyaNyaNyaNyaNyaNyaNyaNyaNyaNyaNyaNyaNya….

Amigurumi Turtle Pattern

When Miss M said she wanted a little Amigurumi Turtle yesterday afternoon, it made me think.... WHERE did my yarn go??? It had been awhile since I crocheted anything (like, a whole week or so), and I could.not.remember where the yarn was.

Oh yes.

In the new storage ottoman.  Out of sight, out of mind.  Silly Mommy.

Yarn problem sorted, I started making tiny little hexagons for his shell, but soon abandoned that idea and went with a simple, one-piece bobble construction. MUCH easier. You'll appreciate that as well. Trust me. 

Oh!  If anyone tries this and has a pattern question or a comment or it just simply doesn't work the way it's supposed to, Please let me know. I'll make it right. 

Oh! OH!  And furthermore... If you make one or two or 16.... I'd love to see pictures! 

**************************************


AMIGURUMI TURTLE PATTERN
(c) 2012 by Julianna McDuffie
Feel free to make and give. Not to sell, sugar. Thank you!

INGREDIENTS/TOOLS
-Worsted Weight yarn in two (or more!) colors of your choosing
-Amigurumi eyes or beads or felt or French knots for eyes
-Black thread for smile and stitching eyes
-Polyfill for stuffing (or stuff with thread ends and pieces, if you prefer)
-US Size E Crochet Hook (or smaller/larger depending upon how tightly you crochet)
-Needle for stitching

STITCHES USED
-SC, Single Crochet
-HDC, Half-Double Crochet
-DC Bobble Stitch: *YO, insert hook in next stitch and pull up a loop. YO, pull through one loop (three loops left on hook). YO, pull through two loops (two loops left on hook). Leave loops on hook. Repeat * four more times, leaving the last loop of each stitch on the hook, until you have six loops left on the hook. YO once more, and pull through all loops. Bobble stitch completed.
-BLO (Back Loops Only)
-HDC BLO Invisible Decrease: YO. Insert hook in BLO of next stitch. Do not YO. Do not complete the stitch. Insert hook into next stitch (again). Pull through two loops (both BLO stitches on the hook). YO, pull through all loops. Be careful here! When making a BLO Invisible Decrease, make sure you are inserting your hook into the NEXT stitch and not into one of the two you've already decreased. When completed, the Invisible Decrease looks like it was done in the first stitch/loop that you pulled through at the beginning of the stitch, and it's easy to think that the second of the pulled through stitches in your last decrease is the starting point for your next decrease. It's not. In my head, I always say "skip". 'Cause it LOOKS like that.
-SC BLO Invisible Decrease: Insert hook in BLO of next stitch. Do Not YO. Do not complete the stitch. Insert hook in the next stitch (again). Pull through two loops (both BLO stitches on the hook). YO, pull through all loops. You may note the crazy similarity to the HDC BLO Invisible Decrease.  You are so very clever.


THE PATTERN

TURTLE SHELL (Work with Color One)
ROUND 1: Ch 2 (counts as first HDC). 9 HDC in second Ch from hook (the first Ch you made). Join in top of first HDC. Tighten the ring by pulling the tail end tightly. (10 stitches)

ROUND 2: Ch 2 (counts as first HDC). 2 HDC in same stitch. DC Bobble stitch in next. *3 HDC in next. DC Bobble stitch in next.* Join in top of first HDC. (20 stitches, including 5 Bobbles)

Round 3: Ch 2 (counts as first HDC). HDC in same stitch. DC Bobble in next. *2 HDC in next. DC Bobble.* around. join to top of first HDC. (30 stitches, including 10 Bobbles)

ROUND 4: Ch 2 (counts as first SC). SC around. Join in top of first SC. End first color. Tie off and weave in ends. Alternately, you can just leave the last tail from the shell and weave it into the next row as you go. That's what I do. But you still need to weave in the first tail from Round 1.) (30 stitches)


BELLY (work with Color Two)
ROUND 1: Join Color 2 to BLO of first stitch in last round of shell. If weaving tails in as you go, be sure to carry both the Color 1 and the Color 2 join tails for at least 5-10 stitches as you embed them.. Ch 2 (counts as first HDC). HDC BLO Invisible Decrease around. Join to top loop of first HDC. (16 stitches)

ROUND 2: Ch 2 (counts as first Sc). SC BLO Invisible Decrease around. STUFF BEFORE JOINING to top loop of first Sc. (8 stitches)

ROUND 3: Ch 2 (counts as first Sc). SC BLO Invisible Decrease around. Join to top of first Sc. (4 stitches). Tie off. Weave in ends. NOTE... If you aren't quite closed enough at this point, you can just close the hole a little further with your needle as you weave in the end.


LEGS (Make four, using Color 2... Or, HEY! Get nuts. Make this with a totally NEW Color!)
Option ONE: Make four legs separately and sew them on to the body:
ROUND 1: Make a Magic ring with 6 HDCs.
ROUND 2: Ch 2, HDC around.
ROUND 3: Ch 2, HDC around.
Sew leg to body. Repeat for three more legs.

Option TWO (my way, although its probably more difficult...) Pick up stitches and crochet directly to the body:
ROUND 1: Pick up a stitch on the body where you would like your leg to begin. I start along the division between my color change. I also weave in the tail of the joined color as I go. Ch 2, HDC in same stitch. YO and Pick up another stitch next to the first. HDC 2 x in same stitch. YO and Pick up a third stitch, completing a triangular angle to the first two. HDC 2 x in same stitch. Join to top of first HDC. (6 stitches)

ROUND 2: Ch 2 (counts as first HDC). HDC around. Join to top of first HDC. Slip Stitch into the HCD directly opposite of your hook to close the leg. Should be the second or third HDC from round 2. It's not a precise thing. No worries. Tie off and weave in ends.

Repeat for three more legs.


HEAD And NECK
ROUND 1: Make a magic ring with only three Chains. Ch 2 (counts as first HDC). HDC 5 times into the ring. Join to top loop of first HDC.

ROUND 2: Ch 2 (counts as first HDC). HDC in same stitch. 2 HDC in each stitch around. (12 stitches)

ROUNDS 3&4: Ch 2 (counts as first HDC). HDC around. (12 stitches).

STUFF Head at this point.

ROUND 5: Ch2 (counts as first HDC). HDC BLO invisible Decrease, *HDC, HDC BLO Invisible Decrease* around. Join at top of first HDC. (8 stitches)

ROUNDS 6&7: Ch 2 (counts as first HDC). HDC around. Join at top of first HDC. (8 stitches)

Tie off, leaving a long tail. Sew neck to body with the yarn tail: Flatten and place the base of the neck along the line where the shell meets the belly. Sew neck to body at the base of the neck, then place a few stitches a little higher on the neck, sewing the neck to the shell so he can hold his 'lil head up. Weave in ends.


TAIL
Pick up a stitch where the tail should be. Join Color 2 to picked up stitch and Ch 2. YO and pick up a second stitch right next to the first. HDC. YO and pick up a third stitch at a triangular angle to the first two. HDC. Ch 2. Tie off. Weave in ends.


FINISHING
Give 'em some eyes! Stitch on a droll little mouth! Happy Turtle!

Seed Packet Birthday Party Invitation Tutorial

Huh. Seems that my original post has disappeared into the nether regions of the interwebs.  Let's try this again, shall we?

For Miss M's fantabulous Garden Birthday party, there was one very logical invitation choice. 

Indeed. 

A Seed Packet.

While I did find a template for seed packets online, it was really too small to work with.  So, in the end, I found a seed packet I liked ("Giant Cactus, Mixed Colors" Zinnias suit Miss M hilariously well, with key words being "Cactus" -- she's a little prickly-- and "Mixed Colors" -- she's nearly always a riot of colors and stripes and plaids and animal prints and sparkly peace signs and flowers and butterflies, all in one outfit), carefully opened it up, ran it through the scanner, and Photoshopped it into what you see here.  I left some of the original text, made some text more personal and enlarged it a bit.

I was able to lay them out two-up (that's two per page, for those not in the printing business).  Once I got all the fiddly bits cut out....

...The next step was to score the fold lines.  A straight edge/ruler works well here, as does the back of a butter knife.  I once saw this fancy-dancy bone-folder in a Martha Stewart magazine with a suggested price of $$$WayTooMuch.ForThisGirl and laughed my pants off.  The back of a knife TOTALLY works, y'all.)

In this image, you can see the order in which the gluing happens... Glue Here on flap One, fold over Flap 2, to meet Flap one, then apply glue to Flap 3, and Fold over the Flap 2.  Flap 3 IS visible on the outside of the packet, as it's the "Best Used By" date on the seed packet.  For Miss M's party, I changed that Date to the actual date of the party.  I'm so clevah.

It's well worth noting that Flap 4 does NOT get glued.  Otherwise, it would be a little difficult to instert the actual invitation card, which looked like THIS:

This image was also taken from the original seed packet, but I adjusted the transparency a little to better see the text. 

And that's all she wrote.  The photoshopping is the most difficult part of this whole thing, but if you are at all proficient in the basics, you should be able to make this happen, no problem.

Would love to see anything you guys come up with. 

There are some really pretty seed packets out there on the market.....

/J

Paper Plate Birdie Bunting with Coffee Filter Flowers

Miss M wanted a Garden Themed Birthday Party this year.... and for some strange reason, I decided to make all the decorations out of coffee filters and paper plates. 

Seriously, don't ask me why.  I suppose I needed a challenge.  Maybe I was bored.  I have no idea.

But in the end, I spent a day or so playing with paper plates and coffee filters - and, come to think of it, cupcake liners as well - finally settling on a few designs that I could use to make bunting, decorations and treat bags. 

I ended up with Paper Plate Birdie Bunting, Coffee Filter Flowers, Paper Plate Spirals and a Giant Coffee Filter Flower/Disco Ball Hanging Centerpiece.  I think it cost me $2 at the Dollar Store.

Niiiice.

We also had several crafts for the five-year-old girls who came to the party:  Paper Plate Hats with Coffee Filter Flowers that the girls decorated, and Coffee Filter Butterflies.

To make the PAPER PLATE BIRDIES, for Bunting or just for fun:

You'll need:

- Paper Plates (2 per Bird)

- Scissors

- Glue or Clue Stick, depending upon your level of patience (mine is ZERO)

- Stapler & Staples

- A few paper clips or clothespins (I switched to clothespins halfway through)

- Twine/string/crochet thread for stringing

-aaaand... A half empty cup of coffee if you want to get all technical about it.

1.  Paper Plates.  Two of 'em.

2.  Fold BOTH plates in half. One plate will become the TAIL, BEAK & WINGS.  The other Plate will become the BODY. Set the Body aside for now.

3.  TAIL:  Cut the Rim off of ONE plate.  Fold the cut-off rim into fourths and cut into four pieces. 

4.  Staple three of the rim pieces together to form the tail.    BEAK:  Cut a triangular beak out of the extra piece of rim.  WINGS Working with the left-over (middle) portion of the cut plate, cut along the fold ALMOST to the edge.  I left about a millimeter or so, just to keep it together.

5.  Apply glue to the wings as shown (in red). 

6. Attach the WINGS to the BODY (the second, un-cut plate) close to where you want the head to be.  I attach the wings so that the edge hits just between the ridge and the flat portion of the body plate... I realize that got cut off a bit in the picture... see the completed bird (below) for a better view.  Let the tips of the wings droop down a little as you glue on the wings. 

IF STRINGING FOR BUNTING:  Now is the time to slide the string into the folded plate.  Be careful when gluing the beak and the tail  in steps 7 & 8 that the string slides freely through the body.

7.  Apply glue to front and back of tail near the staples.  Glue the TAIL to the inside of the folded BODY, opposite to the end where you've attached the wings.  Hold the join with a clothespin or paper clip until the glue dries.  

8.  Apply glue to both sides of the the beak (the non-pointy end). Glue the BEAK to the inside of the body plate.  Hold with a clothespin or paper clip until the glue dries.

Completed Bird.

COFFEE FILTER FLOWERS

1.  Lay out four or five filters as shown.

2. Make an "OK" sign with your non-dominant hand (a circle with your thumb and forefinger).  With your other hand, pinch one filter in the middle of the flat, circular part, and pull it through your "OK" sign, crumpling the filter into what will be the petals. 

3. Repeat with all four or five filters.

4.  Hold the pinched end of one filter.....

5.  ....and add another petal...

6.  ..... and another....

7. ...and another....

8. ... until you have formed a flower.  Don't make these too neat... the beauty here is in the asymmetry.

9.  Holding all of the petals together, fold the points over the bunting string.

10.  Staple the flower to the bunting string, being careful to allow the string to move freely.  Try not to staple the flower directly to the string, or it will be more difficult to adjust later.

 Alternate Birds and Flowers on a long string for Crazy Cheap (and really pretty) Party Bunting!

Add a giant coffee filter flower ball and petals-on-a-string for the

hanging coffee filter disco-ball effect!

Amigurumi Unicorn Horn

As Miss Monkey Pants is at Preschool today, Pink Ape
volunteered to model for me.  He's a nice guy, that Pink Ape.

I'm not exactly sure when it began, or what inspired her, but Little Miss Thing has been busying herself lately, making paper kitty/tiger/puppy ears to wear.  She sits at the kitchen table and painstakingly draws the pattern, colors it, cuts it out, then tapes it all together to form a three-piece headband with ears.

She unabashedly wears them to the grocery store.  I unabashedly let her.

Morrocan Pouf Pillows (Semi) Tutorial

Moroccan Pouf Inspired Floor Pillows!

I ran into this Moroccan pouf pillow design on Pinterest (which were actually being sold for a LOT of $$$ on Plumo), immediately fell in love and decided that I had to have some. 

For a few days, I filtered through about a billion different design ideas on Google, and finally settled on this one, which came with an actual pattern to follow and some pretty great instructions. 

Side Note: Finding and using a pattern was actually a bit strange for me, as I tend to just muddle through things on my own, but I guess using a pattern once in a while won't kill me, huh?

Of course, I followed the pattern, but as I made some changes to the directions, I thought I share what I did with you... because these things are awesome.  And you should have a few.  Once cut, it only took half an hour or so to complete. 



Almost makes a window seat out of practically nothing...



But!  I should warn you.... I used nearly THREE giant, 50oz. bags of Poly-Fil to stuff three pillows.  They are LARGE.

I researched using other materials, specifically packing peanuts (couldn't find enough locally, and what was available is the biodegradable kind, which would squish down too much in a pillow) and old, recycled clothing, towels, etc (too heavy).  Neither was what I wanted.  SO.  Poly-Fil it was.

The good news is that I was forced to go to WalMart for something else (I *hate* WalMart for a multitude of reasons and generally avoid it all costs), and thought I'd check for Poly-fil in the incredibly down-sized crafts section.  Huh.  Whaddyaknow?  I ran into a really good deal. 

SO.  FYI, WalMart sells 50ox bags of Poly-Fil for under $9.00 each.  It cost more than twice that at my local fabric stores.  TWICE that. 

Geez.  Stupid WalMart.

I'm not going into major detail here, as it's already been done on the original link.  However, I DID do a few things differently, so I thought I'd share.  Read on.

 

Yesterday's Teaser... the fabric I chose from my
(Secret Garage Surprise) Dresser O' Fabric Samples.


SO.  Here's how to make Moroccan Floor Pouf Pillows:

Select your fabric and determine the sizing per the above links.  Cut out your pattern.  I used an ad from the Sunday Paper, natch'.

 

(Top Left and Right) I had to trim my fabric samples to a uniform size, first. Final size for each piece was 10" x 20" for this pouf.  If using store bought material, you'll need to do the same.

(Bottom Left) Trimming to the pattern

(Bottom Right) One piece trimmed, and still folded as per the instructions.

NOTE!  Here's the first time I differed from the pattern... knowing that sewing all those pointy ends together at the top and bottom (think "beach ball) was going to make me nutty, I actually trimmed the pointy bits off (by about 1/2") so that I didn't have to deal with the points.  This left a small, octagonal hole at both ends when complete, but I'll show you how I dealt with that in a bit...

(Top Left) All 8 pieces trimmed and ready for sewing.

(Top Right and Bottom Left) Start sewing, right sides together.

(Bottom Right) Continue until all 8 pieces are sewn together. 

Since I left a hole in the top and the bottom (from cutting OFF the points), I didn't leave a turning hole in any side.  I just used one of the open end "holes" to turn and stuff.  That way, I didn't have to hand-sew any of it.  I hate hand-sewing.  Did I already mention that?



(Top) Inside Out!  Turn it!  (Bottom) Right Side out!  Looks like a Beach Ball!



I also did not use Button as used in the original pattern... I made a "False" one instead by cutting out rounds (four total) and sewing them together like so: 

(Top Left) Cut four circles at once, using a a plate as a guide and fabric folded into four layers.  Easy-peasy.  You'll use two circles for the top and two circles for the bottom.

(Bottom Left) Sew two circles, Right Sides Together, leaving an opening to turn.  Repeat for the other set of circles.  Make little cuts around the each circle (from the edge of the fabric to the seam, being careful not to cut the stitching) so that once it's turned right side out, it will lie flatter than if you hadn't cut the notches.

(Top Right) One circle sewn together and turned, the other showing how I marked my turning opening with chalkmarks, and the notches I've cut.  (P.S. Always cut notches like this on a curve or a corner when sewing something that you will turn.  The notches allow the fabric to lie flat instead of bunching up.  You're welcome.)

(Middle Right) Tuck in the opening you left for turning and stitch the edges. I seamed about 1/4" from the edge.

(Bottom Right) Completed "False Buttons" for the top and bottom of the Pouf.

And if you are Four, and it's lunchtime.... Then it must be time for a PICNIC BREAK!  Hello, little kitty!  Don't drink momma's coffee!

Miss M enjoying her picnic in the living room while Momma takes oodles of photos of the ensuing cuteness.  Look'it that face!!!

OKOKOK!  BACK TO WORK! 

Since I hatehatehate Hand Sewing, and there's NO WAY I'm going to get those circles sewn on there neatly by hand or by machine... I pull out the hot-glue gun.  Works.  Totally.

(Top Left) Place a folded sheet of wax paper between the layers so that you don't accidentally glue the top to the bottom!  Go around the circle with your glue gun, and press the Fake Button on.

(Top Right) Lift the edges of your circle, and glue it until it's completely secure, all the way around.  No empty spots.  None.  Glue it.  Glue it GOOD.

(Bottom Left) STUFF!  Go to the store and buy more Stuffing!  Stuff some more!

(Bottom Right) Glue the bottom Fake Button on as you did the top "Button", covering up the stuffing hole entirely.

DONE!

OH!  Before I forget!  The top Pouf in the photo below only has SEVEN sections... It was an experiement.  I cut the pieces to the exact same size as the others, but with one less section, it's TALLER.

Interesting.

I suppose if I were a mathematical genius (or even sliughtly mathmatically inclined), I could have forseen that.  I didn't. 

But it's cool.  Variety is the spice of life.




NOW!  Make two more Poufs and Stack 'em Up!  Everything is better in Threes, you know...


They look pretty in this room, too....

Huh. 

Who's going to clean up this mess?

Wait.

It's Me?

Dammit....

Sigh.





Candy Tin to Crocheted Treasure Box... With BONUS Super-Snarky Tutorial!

My husband always slips a particular brand of tinned candy into my Christmas Stocking.  I like sweet little tins as much as I like the candy that comes in them, so of course, I'm loathe to throw them away.  This year, the empty tin just happened to be sitting next to what my husband calls "the nest"-- my ridiculously large jumble of yarn, hooks, needles and in-process knitting and crochet projects that sits on the table nearest to my end of the couch.  I generally try to clean it up when we have company, but if we're really good friends, well... you've seen it in all it's glory.  And, yeah... Yikes.

So... I'm watching TV, and as usual, need to do something with my hands (which goes a long way toward explaining how my "nest" got there to begin with).  The tin looking so lonely and empty now... so I fixed it up with a bit of crochet and some hot glue. 

The end result now belongs to my 8-year old, who has already filled it with petit objets d'boy.  Fabulous.

Pretty Simple to do, actually.  I debated about whether or not I'd even write a how-to, but, what the heck.  Husband is upstairs in bed with a cold, kids are strangely occupied, so.... Here goes.

Wonder where a California kid got a 5 Pence?

Note that these directions fit *my* tin.. you may need to add or subtract rows for yours... Gauge is unimportant, just keep checking your growing crochet circle against the tin, and when your circle and the tin are the same diameter, you are ready to stop adding stitches and just single crochet in each stitch until the side is covered. Oh yeah... I used a size "E" hook.

Empty the tin FIRST, Flower.  That's the yummy bit.

  

Make TWO (one for the top, and one for the bottom, Sweetie):

Begin: Chain 2.
Rnd 1: 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook. Sl st in first sc, to join. (6 sc)
Rnd 2: ch 1, 2 sc in ea sc around. Sl st in first sc, to join. (12 sc)
Rnd 3: ch 1, (sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc) around. Sl st in first sc, to join. (18 sc)
Rnd 4: ch 1, (sc in ea of next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc) around. Sl st in first sc, to join. (24 sc)
Rnd 5: ch 1, (sc in ea of next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc) around. Sl st in first sc, to join. (30 sc)

Rnd 6:  ch 1, (sc in ea of next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc) around. Sl st in first sc, to join. (36 sc)

Rnd 7 & 8:  ch1, sc around. Sl st in first sc, to join. (36 sc)



Should look something like this when you're finished.
You may notice that I actually used two different colors on the top.
You get two extra-snarky points for being observant.



Of course, the next step involves the craftiest of crafting implements, and my personal fave... the hot glue gun. 

Plug it in.  Remember to leave some sort of offering to the Glue Gun Gods, or you KNOW you will burn your fingers.  That's the way it goes.  Don't ask questions.  My glue gun likes a piece of brie left on the counter.

Have a cup of tea/coffee/Amaretto Sour while you wait for the glue gun to warm up.



Note that the top piece covers the entire side of the tin, but that the
bottom piece leaves the ridge/lip open so that it will close.  Kinda important. 



Squirt a little hot glue on top of the tin and center your crochet piece to fit.  Uh.... it should go without saying that your crochet piece should fit the top of the tin pretty well. The bottom, too, for that matter. You *could* drape your crochet over the tin, and lift up an edge, and glue very carefully in that manner... but you know... it's stretchy.  It'll be fine.  Fine, I say.

Glue about an inch or so at a time around the edge, checking to be sure that you line up your crochet edge to the bottom of the tin lid.  Don't overlap it, or it won't close in the end, Monkey Bits! See the Red piece, below.

Repeat the gluing process for the bottom half of the tin, BEING SURE to leave the "lip" free of crochet so that it will close.  I'm talking to YOU, Monkey Bits!  See the Blue piece, below.



And you're DONE!  Unless, of course, you need to clean off those stringly bits of extra glue gun plastic-y mess.  Do that. 

Give it to YOUR eight-year-old and prepare to be stunned and amazed by the things he pulls out of his pants pockets and drops in his new treasure box!

Or... I suppose you could keep it for yourself you selfish, selfish thing.